Where'd you like to go?
[{"Comment":{"id":"6654521","total_score":"27","content":"If you like hiking, nature, mystical places and you are passionate about Japan, you can not miss the opportunity to do a few kilometers of the path of Kumano and discover its temples. It is not necessary that you all do it on foot. This road allows you to make them by car, bus or as best you can and according to the route.","title":"It is not necessary that you do all of them on foot","hidden":0,"post_time":"2018-09-15 17:42:45","lang_flag":"es","original_content":"Si te gusta el senderismo, la naturaleza, los lugares m\u00edsticos y eres un apasionado de Jap\u00f3n, no puedes dejar pasar la oportunidad de hacer unos kil\u00f3metros del camino de Kumano y descubrir sus templos. No es necesario que los hagas todos a pie. Este camino permite hacerlos en coche, bus o como mejor te venga y seg\u00fan la ruta. ","original_title":"No es necesario que los hagas todos a pie"},"User":{"id":"8084978","name":"Cristina R.","username":"cristinar898","has_avatar":"0","suspicious_pois_level":"0","avatar":"https:\/\/avatars.mnstatic.com\/noavt_3_80x80.png"},"Pictures":[{"id":"10696958","hashcode":"07ea5e0fb2f11cb362f7c6b734dc5521","post_time":"2018-09-15 17:42:52","o_width":"3264","o_height":"2448","base_color":"65737F"},{"id":"10696959","hashcode":"327f68baa4b66eff3fd8b2f792500d1f","post_time":"2018-09-15 17:42:52","o_width":"3264","o_height":"2448","base_color":"65737F"}],"Rating":"5"},{"Comment":{"id":"6658819","total_score":"23","content":"As you walk through its forests and embrace the ancient trees, you reach the Peace of spirit and wish to return and return ... I will return","title":"As you walk through its forests and...","hidden":0,"post_time":"2018-10-06 16:50:04","lang_flag":"es","original_content":"Al caminar por sus bosques y abrazar los \u00e1rboles centenarios ,alcanza la Paz de esp\u00edritu y deseas volver y volver... Volver\u00e9","original_title":"Volver\u00e9"},"User":{"id":"5160718","name":"Jaume Compte Urpi","username":"jaumecompteurpi","has_avatar":"1","suspicious_pois_level":"0","avatar":"https:\/\/avatars.mnstatic.com\/5160718_80x80.jpg"},"Pictures":[{"id":"10708300","hashcode":"83d9acbb7554e6f38827d5974a7e7941","post_time":"2018-10-06 16:51:13","o_width":"1200","o_height":"1600","base_color":"65737F"},{"id":"10708309","hashcode":"e7eda3e160e0c563ebdb39275d5d670f","post_time":"2018-10-06 16:51:14","o_width":"1200","o_height":"1600","base_color":"65737F"},{"id":"10708308","hashcode":"88854f5df2c223e93a0892bf81224603","post_time":"2018-10-06 16:51:14","o_width":"2448","o_height":"3264","base_color":"65737F"},{"id":"10708307","hashcode":"117e5a12799c89f1a66eaad88e11daa9","post_time":"2018-10-06 16:51:14","o_width":"1600","o_height":"1200","base_color":"65737F"},{"id":"10708306","hashcode":"46b311a165f93383277dab0e81c48683","post_time":"2018-10-06 16:51:14","o_width":"3264","o_height":"2448","base_color":"65737F"},{"id":"10708305","hashcode":"2cf81cc612f8000084b686c5105d1ac5","post_time":"2018-10-06 16:51:14","o_width":"3264","o_height":"2448","base_color":"65737F"},{"id":"10708304","hashcode":"ab96ca2c6be65a6df9427661416d6f08","post_time":"2018-10-06 16:51:14","o_width":"1200","o_height":"1600","base_color":"65737F"},{"id":"10708303","hashcode":"dfbee578c83d826c0d77748b57710dbf","post_time":"2018-10-06 16:51:13","o_width":"1600","o_height":"1200","base_color":"65737F"},{"id":"10708302","hashcode":"b92dba3c363d3e3c09e2a78e249fe6d3","post_time":"2018-10-06 16:51:13","o_width":"3264","o_height":"2448","base_color":"65737F"},{"id":"10708301","hashcode":"89f8b774af9f43c9d1adf86f8ed3888d","post_time":"2018-10-06 16:51:13","o_width":"3264","o_height":"2448","base_color":"65737F"}],"Rating":"5"},{"Comment":{"id":"6660501","total_score":"15","content":"Sometimes, only sometimes, you believe a bit pretentiously that you are back from everything. And it is then, when you least expect it, always like this, when you realize that you had not even gone. They say that for Kumano Kod\u014d they have walked so many steps that even the wind is already a pilgrim. Buddhist monks and Shintoist pilgrims, daimyos and ladies of the court, poor and rich, ascetics and geishas, \u200b\u200bdisembodied spirits and emaciated feet on pauper sandals. All looking for something. I suppose. There are others, others who walk by, or seek without seeking. I suppose. Kumano Kod\u014d is an old pilgrimage road (roads rather) that cross the Kii Peninsula, in Honsh\u00fb. It is a mountainous and forested place, surprisingly isolated from the industrialized and ultramodern Japan that is so familiar to us. There are some of the temples, sanctuaries, even the very sacred mountains of Japan. Kii is the heart, the soul, of mythical and secular Japan, of the spiritual and ancestral identity of the Japanese people. More than a thousand years ago, the emperor and his court made pilgrimages to some of those sanctuaries, in a rite of identification and regeneration of that mythical and divine spirit that forms the Japanese identity. Afterwards, people of all walks walked on those routes that intersect between the tree-covered mountains. Kumano Kod\u014d .... The Nakahechi route, as I said before there are several pilgrimage routes throughout the Kii Peninsula, crosses this from west to east. The traditional thing is to start the trip in Takiji-oji, (you can take a bus from Tanabe, on the coast, to here). Here is very practical information about Kumano Kod\u00f4 routes, with detailed maps and plans. http:\/\/www.tb-kumano.jp\/es\/kumano-kodo\/ I do not know but I\"m struggling to write this. I\"m not sure what to tell. Walking ... walking is traveling, and not only goes somewhere. Because, in fact, where are you going in Kumano Kod\u00f4? Where is a guy like me, a guy who comes and goes, just like that, like a shred of cloud that gives way to the invitation of the wind. I thought that Kumano would be something like the Camino de Santiago, (in fact there I met M. my traveling companion) but, but ... Not only do you change the hat or the cap for the kasa (that typical hat from reed so Japanese) and the hazel bord\u00f3n by a bamboo stick (enormous that brought from M. of house, we seemed three pilgrims and not two), is that here one does not have a defined destiny. Here the roads intersect. There are pilgrims who go to one place and others who go to another. There are some clear reference points but one sometimes has the feeling that it just goes up and down mountains, without more. The mountains ... The overwhelming mountains of Kumano. Green. So green in the moss and in the leaves of the trees, in the plants without the name. So green everything the rain touches. \"Deko boko\" M. repeats it often. Steep. Up and down. Up and down. The road looks for peaks and ridges. There dwell the gods and their word. Because here is nature the temple and the measure of things and steps. The columns and archivolts are the centenary trunks of the gigantic cypresses. And I remember looking up and seeing the sky disintegrated among its dark branches. Walk wrapped in incense flavored with cedar and pine, to rain, and only the rivers and streams that roll down, swiftly, without stopping, murmuring prayers in living languages. Do you know? Here the stained glass windows are made by spiders and caterpillars with their silks visible only after the rain. I remember feeling his touch on my skin when I walked at dawn. And the dew trapped in them. Shining ... There is something special when you walk. When you start the road and feel the weight of the backpack on your back, you put on your hat and grab the bamboo stick something changes inside. Something that you do not know very well how to explain but that is as forceful and real as the hardness of the earth underfoot. Things change. The importance of things I want to say. There are things that begin to be valued for what they weigh and not for what they are, or for what we assign them to be. And is that friends, how things weigh. These things that make life so easy and so comfortable, (and it is true that they do), how they weigh. One ends up walking with the essential (there is no other choice) and thinking about very short time limits: this afternoon, tomorrow ... The loneliness. I think we met four pilgrims throughout the trip. And among us we did not talk much. Between our pitiful spanjanglish and that we were breathless most of the time the silence pilgrimage along with us for miles. Well, the night, that\"s what it was. To find a suitable place to assemble the small shop of those igloo. Sometimes the grass was dry, sometimes the rain was covered with grass. We have set up the shop in the most unsuspected places you can imagine. From a piece of hard and bare ground next to a sanctuary because there was no other dry place, even in the breakwater and in Kii-Katsura at the end of the trip. We had dinner at night sashimi after the onsen (we gave ourselves the luxury as the end of the trip) and we did at night looking for a beach that did not exist in fact ... That\"s right. God protects innocence, as my father said, and one afternoon we had the immense luck of being welcomed by a retired couple in the garden of their home. Joppe In my backpack I have hanging the santiaguera scallop and when we climbed a hill (of course) next to some houses with terraced rice paddies thinking where we were going to be able to camp a people who had there greeted us and one of them said: Santugu Compasutera (or something well) It turns out that the good sir recognized the scallop. The lady of the house was with some friends, and chatting with each other, good M. chatted. It must have been the most exotic of course. The good lady offered us her garden so that we could camp that night. They were with some friends and we had coffee, not tea, and even the lady gave us a cake. And when the husband appeared, it turns out that the man was Catholic (I suppose the only Japanese Catholic in a thousand miles around). Ay ... We exchanged addresses, we took photos ... I remember that afternoon because the swallows flew so low over the rice paddies that I could almost touch them with my hand. And in the sky some clouds were barely clouds, becoming heaven. I remember that the sun fell slowly behind the mountains and M. and I joked animated by the luck that we had had. Because we had soft grass under the back and the warmth of a quiet night on the skin. I remember that I felt the need to write a letter. Say something ... - Here you are, because here I feel you, in all this beauty that surrounds me. In this moment. In this precise moment in which the frogs do not stop croaking and the dragonflies float in the breeze that touches the rice fields. Here you are. Here you are because with me you go. Forever. Because in you I am-. But I did not write. I had the paper in front, a couple of sheets that I kept from the Koya-san monastery, but the night fell fast on us. And us in the soft grass that smelled of grass. And already in the store I thought about the thousand voices of the frogs. All were different. - Everything is different - I thought. As the sound of the air between the leaves of the poplars is different than between the leaves of the pines ... The next morning (here the day dawns around 4:30) we picked up the tent without noise so as not to disturb and we left. We do not look back. The scallop, a rattle, the bamboo rod (in some important sanctuaries there are rods left by pilgrims before returning home for others to use, let\"s say they are rods lent by the road itself, although it is not obligatory to leave them and you can take home) and the kasa (the rush hat that I bought at the beginning for M\"s rejoicing, but the same for the sun as for the drizzle or for the lower branches and leaves of the path). A) Yes. Up and down. Deko boko. Sometimes by ladders of steps half eaten by the roots of the trees, sometimes by mere paths between the trees. And the green The color that invades everything. The forest is so closed that sometimes I did not realize when it was raining or stopped raining. Only in a small clearing felt the drops on my hat and saw the dry leaves of the ground wet by the rain. But sometimes it rained seriously. I think it was raining. And then the crabs came out everywhere, on the road, among the grass. They look like sea. Round and plump they, what nice. But with bad milk. If someone is as furious as I am and insists on playing with them, it will take a good pinch, in my faith yes. One night the prairie where we pretended to camp was so wet that the crabs walked there by the dozens, like this, as if hiding, as they do, and it was almost scary to plant the tent on top of one. And the frogs so green and bright, the black salamanders with the red belly and the jet-black eyes, the silent worms exploring the rain. All the creatures that on earth live but to the water belong accompanied then our steps. What forests those in which even the sky was green. And the mountain ascended and ascended towards the next mountain. And sometimes a statue of Jiz\u014d, or a grave, or a prayer written on a stone. And always the moss, the raindrops lingering for a moment on the edge of the leaves before turning into water only. And on the summits the tangled clouds, fraying between the cedars and the cypresses and the thousand different trees that inhabit these forests. And I ... I make water while I feel the breath I need while I\"m wrapped in that greenish light. I felt it would be moss here and now, rain on the soft grass. I looking at the dazzling whiteness of the flowers that tremble in my step. Me without being me in the infinite path that weaves watersheds and mountain crests sustained only by the roots of the trees. Breathless. Only one step. One more step. There will always be one more step, one beyond. Each step is an event, now it is. And the rattle sounds, tireless. At each step, in each of my heartbeats that resonate here, among the trees, and they get lost making themselves silent. Its pure tinkle reminds me of who I am. I could die here and now wrapped in this beauty that suffocates me and I would not even notice. And at the top always the butterflies and the dragonflies. It\"s curious. Dragonflies Here. What will they look for, pilgrimage here? What mysteries And then again to go down. To the valley, to the river, to the next slope. One day it rained all afternoon we went through a strange place with inscriptions that seemed to indicate a detour. I do not understand the kanji so I asked M. He told me something about an old cemetery. I remember the silence that sounded at that moment. I knew he would not go. His look told me. He knew that I would go. He already knows me enough. I crossed the dry channel of a river, sometimes crossing a dry riverbed is very important, I understood it then. I thought of Sant\u00f4ka. The dry riverbed was wet from the rain. I walked through thick vegetation that filled my clothes with water almost immediately. The path disappeared. The truth is that the place imposed. I did not see the Buddhist haka anywhere. I continued A mossy footbridge full of verd\u00edn crossed a stream. I looked for a place to jump the stream because I told myself that I did not set foot there. On the other bank the hillside was steep and the trees twisted dark. It was just after three o\"clock and it seemed like it was getting dark, I swear. I am not superstitious but if the ghosts exist, or the y\u00f4kai, on my faith they lived there. Suggestion? I dont know. But I swear the forest breathed and throbbed next to me. And he watched me. I felt an intruder there. And the rain on my raincoat kept rattling. That rain so fine ... When I came back to M. he asked me if I had seen anything. I never asked him if it was only the cemetery he was referring to. Takijiri-oji, Takahara-oji, Osakamoto-oji, Gyuba-oji, Hosshimon-oji, Mizunomi-oji ... And so up to ninety-nine the legend says ... No, there are not so many. The oji are small sanctuaries, or altars, and propitious places to rest awhile, which mark the Kumano Kod\u00f4. Sometimes little more than an engraved rock, an altar or a shimenawa, other times true sanctuaries shinto with its torii and its small pavilion. From oji to oji, from mountain to mountain, from amazement to amazement, we arrive at Kumano Hong\u016b Taisha, a fundamental sanctuary in Japanese Shintoism and with a gigantic torii over the rice fields. But we who are like that, because we follow Nachi Taisha. There, apart from a shinto shrine and a Buddhist temple, there is an impressive waterfall, the highest waterfall in Japan, and perhaps the most beautiful waterfall I have ever seen. So, from the paddies full of tadpoles and with the traces of who planted the rice still in the mud, under the water, we ascended to the mountain of Nachi Taisha. And the trees, the flowers, the butterflies ..... Sometimes I remember thinking \"will it always be the same butterfly?\" Always when I ascended the mountains, always to my left, always of that species that I have only seen here, black, huge, with the edges of the wings white and red. Always beautiful on the air that does not weigh, oblivious to the things that make life so easy because she herself is the ease of life, its natural and pure simplicity. And sometimes I thought that she thought \"will it always be the same pilgrim?\" Always ascending mountains, always to my right, always of that rare type that I have only seen here, with his bamboo and his reed hat, with his scallop. Always with that bell that tinkles with a pure and beautiful sound, oblivious to words, time and sadness. Because it is peace what is here, and it sounds and floats in the air. Kumano Kod\u014d. I walk towards the depths of oneself. To touch the peaks where to recognize what one is. What one is always and every step. Where the dragonflies fly without us knowing why, without knowing what they are looking for. And there, at last, the water that came down from the mountains, which was cloud and sea, and rain and stream and river, rushes into the void. The noise is deafening in the silence that floods the world. And there, at last, I who was path and moss, I who was tired and pain, and joy and peace, I rush silent in the thunderous noise that floods the emptiness of my soul. And I watch. Going back to Osaka was a shock. We were half limping and stubborn. M.\"s back hurt so the poor man looked like the bag man walking with his backpack. His bamboo \"pole\" lost it on the bus so we were two again. I could have taken mine with me but I preferred that she stay on pilgrimage forever, the eternity assigned to the bamboo, I mean, for the mountains that gave her life and for me the steps. Before, however, I cut with my Swiss Army knife a small ring from its end to continue accompanying my pilgrimage. Well, we got lost in the Osaka subways. In the countless halls and corridors under the railway and metro stations. Water cascades, these artificial clear, that is not known from where they leave but land on a -3rd floor. I know of cities that are much smaller than that, and with the tenth of people who move around there. There are all kinds of shops, restaurants, department stores ... And when you go out monorails without driver who cross buildings (yes, part by part) at the height of a 6th floor, or elevators of those on the outside that They go up like a glass rocket, you do not know where. In one of the hundreds of establishments we ate an okonomiyaki, delicious, before leaving for the port to catch the ferry. How the city faded, little by little, in the afternoon sky, just at the end of the white wake that left the boat behind ... M. and I, while having a coffee at home, already back in \u00d4ita, sitting In some chairs, we were quite silent. Sometimes one spoke of the sound of the waves in Kii-Katsura, all night, and the fireflies by the sea ... And then the other spoke of the strange automatic and homemade scarecrow of the rice fields ... And of the fields of tea, so green, or suzumebachi, how scary! ... And the other after, that night when it rained and our back hurt on the hard ground but sang the hototogisu and we imitated him like children who spend their time playing without more ... And those deer that fled when we appeared from among the thickets ... Or those white flowers with an unknown name that marked a valley full of ferns ... I remember how they shone in the rain ... Yes, I remember it well ...","title":"Pilgrimage in the heart of Japan","hidden":0,"post_time":"2018-10-15 12:23:45","lang_flag":"es","original_content":"\nA veces, s\u00f3lo a veces, uno cree un tanto pretenciosamente que ya est\u00e1 de vuelta de todo. Y es entonces, cuando menos lo esperas, siempre as\u00ed, cuando te das cuenta de que ni siquiera hab\u00edas ido.\n\n\nCuentan que por el Kumano Kod\u014d han caminado tantos pasos que hasta el viento es ya peregrino. Monjes budistas y peregrinos shintoistas, daimyos y damas de la corte, pobres y ricos, ascetas y geishas, esp\u00edritus desencarnados y descarnados pies sobre paup\u00e9rrimas sandalias. Todos buscando algo. Supongo.\n\n\nHay otros, otros que andan por andar, o buscan sin buscar. Supongo.\n\n\nKumano Kod\u014d es un antiguo camino (caminos m\u00e1s bien) de peregrinaci\u00f3n que recorren la Pen\u00ednsula de Kii, en Honsh\u00fb. Es un lugar monta\u00f1oso y cubierto de bosques, sorprendentemente aislado del Jap\u00f3n industrializado y ultramoderno que nos es tan familiar. All\u00ed se encuentran algunos de los templos, santuarios, incluso las propias monta\u00f1as, m\u00e1s sagrados de Jap\u00f3n. Kii es el coraz\u00f3n, el alma, del Jap\u00f3n m\u00edtico y secular, de la identidad espiritual y ancestral del pueblo japon\u00e9s. Hace m\u00e1s de mil a\u00f1os el emperador y su corte peregrinaba por algunos de esos santuarios, en un rito de identificaci\u00f3n y regeneraci\u00f3n de ese esp\u00edritu m\u00edtico y divino que conforma la identidad japonesa. Despu\u00e9s, personas de toda condici\u00f3n caminaron por esas rutas que se entrecruzan entre las monta\u00f1as cubiertas de \u00e1rboles.\n\n\n\nKumano Kod\u014d....\n\n\nLa ruta Nakahechi, como dec\u00eda antes hay varias rutas de peregrinaci\u00f3n a lo largo y ancho de la Pen\u00ednsula de Kii, atraviesa esta de oeste a este. Lo tradicional es comenzar el viaje en Takiji-oji, (se puede coger un autob\u00fas desde Tanabe, en la costa, hasta aqu\u00ed).\n\n\nAqu\u00ed hay informaci\u00f3n muy pr\u00e1ctica sobre las rutas de Kumano Kod\u00f4, con mapas y planos detallados.\n\n\nhttp:\/\/www.tb-kumano.jp\/es\/kumano-kodo\/\n\n\n\n\nNo s\u00e9 pero me est\u00e1 costando escribir esto. No s\u00e9 muy bien qu\u00e9 contar.\nCaminar\u2026 caminando se viaja, y no s\u00f3lo se va a alg\u00fan sitio.\n\nPorque, de hecho, \u00bfa d\u00f3nde vas en Kumano Kod\u00f4? D\u00f3nde va un tipo como yo, un tipo que va y viene, as\u00ed sin m\u00e1s, como jir\u00f3n de nube que cede a la invitaci\u00f3n del viento. Pensaba yo que Kumano ser\u00eda algo as\u00ed como el Camino de Santiago, (de hecho all\u00ed conoc\u00ed a M. mi compa\u00f1ero de viaje) pero, pero.... No s\u00f3lo es que cambies el sombrero o la gorra por el kasa (ese t\u00edpico sombrero de junco tan japon\u00e9s) y el bord\u00f3n de avellano por una vara de bamb\u00fa (enorme la que trajo de M. de casa, parec\u00edamos tres peregrinos y no dos), es que aqu\u00ed uno no tiene un destino definido. Aqu\u00ed los caminos se entrecruzan. Hay peregrinos que van a un sitio y otros que van a otro. Hay algunos lugares de referencia claro pero uno a veces tiene la sensaci\u00f3n de que se limita a subir y bajar monta\u00f1as, sin m\u00e1s.\n\n\nLas monta\u00f1as... Las monta\u00f1as sobrecogedoras de Kumano. Verdes. Tan verdes en el musgo y en las hojas de los \u00e1rboles, en las plantas sinnombre. Tan verde todo lo que la lluvia toca.\n\n\n\u201cDeko boko\u201d M. lo repite a menudo. Escarpado. Arriba y abajo. Subir y bajar. El camino busca las cumbres y las crestas. All\u00ed moran los dioses y su palabra.\nPorque aqu\u00ed es la naturaleza el templo y la medida de las cosas y de los pasos.\nLas columnas y arquivoltas son los troncos centenarios de los cipreses gigantescos. Y recuerdo levantar la vista y ver el cielo desintegrado entre sus ramas oscuras. Caminar envuelto en el incienso con sabor a cedro y pino, a lluvia, y s\u00f3lo los r\u00edos y arroyos que ruedan abajo, raudos, sin detenerse nunca, murmurar oraciones en lenguajes vivos.\n\n\u00bfSab\u00e9is? Aqu\u00ed las vidrieras las construyen las ara\u00f1as y las orugas con sus sedas s\u00f3lo visibles tras la lluvia. Recuerdo sentir su tacto sobre mi piel cuando caminaba al amanecer. Y el roc\u00edo atrapado en ellas. Brillando...\n\n\n\nHay algo especial cuando uno camina. Cuando comienzas el camino y sientes el peso de la mochila en la espalda, te pones el sombrero y agarras el palo de bamb\u00fa algo cambia dentro. Algo que no sabes muy bien c\u00f3mo explicar pero que es tan contundente y real como la dureza de la tierra bajo los pies. Las cosas cambian. La importancia de las cosas quiero decir. Hay cosas que comienzan a valorarse por lo que pesan y no por lo que son, o por lo que nosotros le adjudicamos que son.\n\n\nY es que amigos, c\u00f3mo pesan las cosas. Estas cosas que nos hacen la vida tan f\u00e1cil y tan c\u00f3moda, (y es verdad que la hacen), c\u00f3mo pesan. Uno acaba caminando con lo imprescindible (no hay m\u00e1s remedio) y pensando en l\u00edmites temporales muy cortos: esta tarde, ma\u00f1ana...\n\n\nLa soledad. Creo que nos cruzamos con cuatro peregrinos en todo el viaje. Y entre nosotros no habl\u00e1bamos mucho. Entre nuestro spanjanglish lamentable y que est\u00e1bamos sin resuello las m\u00e1s de las veces el silencio peregrinaba junto a nosotros durante kil\u00f3metros.\n\n\nY bueno, la noche, a eso iba. A buscar un sitio apropiado para montar la tiendecilla de esas igl\u00fa. A veces la hierba estaba seca, a veces la lluvia estaba cubierta de hierba. Hemos montado la tienda en los sitios m\u00e1s insospechados que pod\u00e1is imaginar. Desde un cacho de tierra dur\u00edsima y pelada junto a un santuario porque no hab\u00eda otro sitio seco, hasta en pleno rompeolas ya en Kii-Katsura al final del viaje. Se nos hizo de noche cenando sashimi despu\u00e9s del onsen (nos dimos el lujo como final del viaje) y se nos hizo de noche buscando una playa que de hecho no exist\u00eda....\n\n\nEso s\u00ed. Dios protege la inocencia, ya lo dec\u00eda mi padre, y una tarde tuvimos la inmensa suerte de ser acogidos por una pareja de jubilados en el jard\u00edn de su casa. Jope. En mi mochila llevo colgando la vieira santiaguera y cuando sub\u00edamos una cuesta (c\u00f3mo no) junto a unas casitas con sus arrozales aterrazados pensando d\u00f3nde \u00edbamos a poder acampar una gente que hab\u00eda por all\u00ed nos salud\u00f3 y uno de ellos dijo: Santugu Compasutera (o algo as\u00ed) Resulta que el buen se\u00f1or reconoci\u00f3 la vieira. La se\u00f1ora de la casa estaba con unos amigos, y charlando con unos y con otros, bueno M. charlaba. Deb\u00eda de resultar de lo m\u00e1s ex\u00f3tico claro. La buena se\u00f1ora nos ofreci\u00f3 su jard\u00edn para que acamp\u00e1ramos esa noche. Estaban con unos amigos y tomamos caf\u00e9, no t\u00e9, y hasta la se\u00f1ora nos dio un pastel. Y cuando apareci\u00f3 el marido resulta que el se\u00f1or era cat\u00f3lico (supongo que el \u00fanico japon\u00e9s cat\u00f3lico en mil millas a la redonda). Ay.... Intercambiamos direcciones, hicimos fotos\u2026\n\n\nRecuerdo aquella tarde porque las golondrinas volaban tan bajo sobre los arrozales que casi pod\u00eda tocarlas con la mano. Y en el cielo unas nubes apenas eran ya nubes, haci\u00e9ndose cielo. Recuerdo que el sol cay\u00f3 lentamente tras las monta\u00f1as y M. y yo brome\u00e1bamos animados por la suerte que hab\u00edamos tenido. Porque ten\u00edamos hierba blanda bajo la espalda y la tibieza de una noche tranquila sobre la piel. Recuerdo que sent\u00ed la necesidad de escribir una carta.\n\n\nDecir algo\u2026\n\n\n-Aqu\u00ed est\u00e1s, porque aqu\u00ed te siento, en toda esta belleza que me rodea. En este instante. En este preciso instante en el que las ranas no dejan de croar y las lib\u00e9lulas flotan en la brisa que toca los arrozales. Aqu\u00ed est\u00e1s. Aqu\u00ed est\u00e1s porque conmigo vas. Siempre. Porque en ti soy-.\n\n\nPero no escrib\u00ed. Ten\u00eda el papel delante, un par de hojas que guard\u00e9 del monasterio de K\u014dya-san, pero la noche cay\u00f3 veloz sobre nosotros. Y nosotros en la hierba blanda que ol\u00eda a hierba. Y ya en la tienda pensaba en las mil voces de las ranas. Todas eran diferentes. -Todo es diferente- pens\u00e9. Como el sonido del aire entre las hojas de los chopos es diferente que entre las hojas de los pinos\u2026\n\nA la ma\u00f1ana siguiente (aqu\u00ed raya el alba en torno a las 4:30) recogimos la tienda sin ruido para no molestar y partimos. No miramos atr\u00e1s.\n\nLa vieira, un cascabel, la vara de bamb\u00fa (en algunos santuarios importantes hay varas que peregrinos dejaron antes de volver a casa all\u00ed para que otros las usen, digamos que son varas prestadas por el propio camino, aunque no es obligatorio dejarlas y te las puedes llevar a casa) y el kasa (el sombrero de junco que me compr\u00e9 al inicio para regocijo de M. pero que me vino de maravilla lo mismo para el sol que para la llovizna o para las ramas y hojas bajas del sendero). As\u00ed. Arriba y abajo. Deko boko. A veces por escaleras de pelda\u00f1os medio devorados por las ra\u00edces de los \u00e1rboles, a veces por meras sendas entre los \u00e1rboles.\n\n\nY el verde. El color que lo invade todo. El bosque es tan cerrado que yo a veces no me daba cuenta de cu\u00e1ndo llov\u00eda o dejaba de llover. S\u00f3lo en un peque\u00f1o claro sent\u00eda las gotas sobre mi sombrero y ve\u00eda las hojas secas del suelo mojadas por la lluvia. Pero a veces llov\u00eda en serio. Ya lo creo que llov\u00eda. Y entonces los cangrejos sal\u00edan por todas partes, en el camino, entre la hierba. Parecen de mar. Redondos y rechonchos ellos, qu\u00e9 majos. Pero con mala leche. Si alguien es tan pelma como yo y se empe\u00f1a en jugar con ellos se llevar\u00e1 un buen pellizco, a fe m\u00eda que s\u00ed. Una noche la pradera donde pretend\u00edamos acampar estaba tan mojada que los cangrejos andaban por all\u00ed a docenas, as\u00ed de lado, como disimulando, como hacen ellos, y casi daba miedo plantar la tienda encima de alguno.\n\n\nY las ranas tan verdes y brillantes, las salamandras negras de vientre rojo y ojos como azabache, las lombrices silenciosas explorando la lluvia. Todas las criaturas que en la tierra viven pero al agua pertenecen acompa\u00f1aban entonces nuestros pasos.\n\nQu\u00e9 bosques aquellos en los que hasta el cielo era verde. Y la monta\u00f1a ascend\u00eda y ascend\u00eda hacia la siguiente monta\u00f1a. Y a veces una estatua de Jiz\u014d, o una tumba, o una oraci\u00f3n escrita en una piedra. Y siempre el musgo, las gotas de lluvia demor\u00e1ndose un instante en el borde las hojas antes de hacerse agua tan s\u00f3lo. Y en las cumbres las nubes enredadas, deshilach\u00e1ndose entre los cedros y los cipreses y los mil \u00e1rboles diferentes que habitan estos bosques.\n\n\nY yo... yo haci\u00e9ndome agua mientras siento que el aliento me falta mientras asciendo envuelto en esa luz verdosa. Yo sintiendo que ser\u00eda musgo aqu\u00ed y ahora, lluvia sobre la hierba blanda. Yo mirando la blancura deslumbrante de las flores que tiemblan a mi paso. Yo sin ser yo en la senda infinita que hilvana vertientes y crestea monta\u00f1as sostenida tan s\u00f3lo por las ra\u00edces de los \u00e1rboles.\n\n\nSin aliento. S\u00f3lo un paso. Un paso m\u00e1s. Siempre habr\u00e1 un paso m\u00e1s, uno m\u00e1s all\u00e1. Cada paso es un acontecimiento, ahora s\u00ed. Y el cascabel suena, incansable. A cada paso, en cada uno de mis latidos que resuenan aqu\u00ed, entre los \u00e1rboles, y se pierden haci\u00e9ndose silencio. Su tintineo puro me recuerda qui\u00e9n soy. Podr\u00eda morir aqu\u00ed y ahora envuelto en esta belleza que me asfixia y ni siquiera me dar\u00eda cuenta.\n\nY en la cumbre siempre las mariposas y las lib\u00e9lulas. Es curioso. Lib\u00e9lulas. Aqu\u00ed. Qu\u00e9 buscar\u00e1n ellas peregrinando hasta aqu\u00ed. Qu\u00e9 misterios. Y despu\u00e9s de nuevo a bajar. Al valle, al r\u00edo, a la siguiente pendiente.\n\n\nUn d\u00eda que llovi\u00f3 toda la tarde pasamos por un lugar extra\u00f1o con unas inscripciones que parec\u00edan se\u00f1alar un desv\u00edo. Yo no entiendo los kanji as\u00ed que le pregunt\u00e9 a M. Me dijo algo de un cementerio antiguo. Recuerdo el silencio que son\u00f3 en ese momento. Yo sab\u00eda que \u00e9l no ir\u00eda. Me lo dec\u00eda su mirada. \u00c9l sab\u00eda que yo ir\u00eda. Me conoce ya lo suficiente. Cruc\u00e9 el cauce seco de un r\u00edo, a veces cruzar un cauce seco es muy importante, lo entend\u00ed entonces. Pens\u00e9 en Sant\u00f4ka. El cauce seco estaba mojado por la lluvia. Camin\u00e9 por una vegetaci\u00f3n espesa que me llen\u00f3 de agua la ropa casi inmediatamente. La senda desapareci\u00f3. La verdad es que el lugar impon\u00eda. Yo no ve\u00eda las haka budistas por ning\u00fan lado. Continu\u00e9. Una pasarela musgosa y llena de verd\u00edn atravesaba un arroyo. Busqu\u00e9 un sitio para saltar el arroyo porque me dije a m\u00ed mismo que yo all\u00ed no pon\u00eda un pie. En la otra orilla la ladera se empinaba y los \u00e1rboles se retorc\u00edan oscuros. Eran poco m\u00e1s de las tres y parec\u00eda que anochec\u00eda, lo juro.\n\nYo no soy supersticioso pero si los fantasmas existen, o los y\u00f4kai, a fe m\u00eda que all\u00ed habitaban. \u00bfSugesti\u00f3n? No s\u00e9. Pero juro que el bosque respiraba y palpitaba junto a m\u00ed. Y me contemplaba. Me sent\u00eda un intruso all\u00ed. Y la lluvia sobre mi chubasquero no dejaba de repiquetear. Aquella lluvia tan fina\u2026\n\n\nCuando volv\u00ed junto a M.me pregunt\u00f3 si hab\u00eda visto algo. Nunca le pregunt\u00e9 si era s\u00f3lo al cementerio a lo que se refer\u00eda.\n\n\n\nTakijiri-oji, Takahara-oji, Osakamoto-oji, Gyuba-oji, Hosshimon-oji, Mizunomi-oji\u2026. Y as\u00ed hasta noventa y nueve dice la leyenda\u2026 No, no hay tantos. Los oji son peque\u00f1os santuarios, o altares, y lugares propicios para descansar un rato, que jalonan el Kumano Kod\u00f4. A veces poco m\u00e1s que una roca grabada, un altar o una shimenawa, otras veces verdaderos santuarios shinto con su torii y su peque\u00f1o pabell\u00f3n. \n\n\nDe oji en oji, de monta\u00f1a en monta\u00f1a, de asombro en asombro, llegamos a Kumano Hong\u016b Taisha, un santuario fundamental en el shintoismo japon\u00e9s y con un torii gigantesco sobre los arrozales. Pero nosotros que somos as\u00ed, pues seguimos a Nachi Taisha. All\u00ed aparte de un santuario shinto y un templo budista hay una cascada impresionante, la m\u00e1s alta de Jap\u00f3n, y quiz\u00e1 la m\u00e1s bella que yo haya visto.\n\n\nAs\u00ed que desde los arrozales cuajados de renacuajos y con las huellas de quien plant\u00f3 el arroz a\u00fan en el barro, bajo el agua, ascendimos hasta la monta\u00f1a de Nachi Taisha. Y los \u00e1rboles, las flores, las mariposas.....\n\nA veces recuerdo que pensaba \"\u00bfser\u00e1 siempre la misma mariposa?\" Siempre cuando ascend\u00eda por las monta\u00f1as, siempre a mi izquierda, siempre de esa especie que s\u00f3lo he visto aqu\u00ed, negra, enorme, con los bordes de las alas blancos y rojos. Siempre hermosa sobre el aire que no pesa, ajena a las cosas que hacen la vida tan f\u00e1cil porque ella misma es la facilidad de la vida, su sencillez natural y pura.\n\nY a veces pensaba que ella pensaba \"\u00bfser\u00e1 siempre el mismo peregrino?\" Siempre ascendiendo monta\u00f1as, siempre a mi derecha, siempre de ese tipo tan raro que s\u00f3lo he visto aqu\u00ed, con su bamb\u00fa y su sombrero de junco, con su vieira. Siempre con ese cascabel que tintinea con un sonido puro y bello, ajeno a las palabras, al tiempo y a la tristeza. Porque es paz lo que aqu\u00ed hay, y suena y flota en el aire.\n\n\n\nKumano Kod\u014d. Camino hacia lo m\u00e1s profundo de uno mismo. Hasta tocar las cumbres donde reconocer lo que uno es. Lo que uno es siempre y a cada paso. Donde las lib\u00e9lulas vuelan sin que sepamos por qu\u00e9, sin que sepamos lo que buscan.\n\nY all\u00ed, al fin, el agua que baj\u00f3 de las monta\u00f1as, que fue nube y mar, y lluvia y arroyo y r\u00edo, se precipita al vac\u00edo. El ruido es ensordecedor en el silencio que inunda el mundo. Y all\u00ed, al fin, yo que fui sendero y musgo, yo que fui cansancio y dolor, y alegr\u00eda y paz, me precipito silencioso en el ruido atronador que inunda el vac\u00edo de mi alma. Y contemplo.\n\nVolver a Osaka fue un shock. And\u00e1bamos medio renqueantes y agujetosos. A M. le dol\u00eda la espalda as\u00ed que el pobre parec\u00eda el hombre del saco caminando con la mochila. Su \u201cp\u00e9rtiga\u201d de bamb\u00fa la perdi\u00f3 en el bus as\u00ed que \u00e9ramos dos de nuevo. Yo pod\u00eda haberme llevado la m\u00eda de recuero pero prefer\u00ed que se quedara peregrinando eternamente, la eternidad asignada al bamb\u00fa quiero decir, por las monta\u00f1as que le dieron la vida y a m\u00ed los pasos. Antes, sin embargo, cort\u00e9 con mi navaja suiza un peque\u00f1o anillo de su extremo para que contin\u00fae acompa\u00f1ando mi peregrinar.\n\nBueno, pues en los subterr\u00e1neos de Osaka nos perdimos. En las innumerables salas y pasillos bajo las estaciones de ferrocarril y metro. Cascadas de agua, \u00e9stas artificiales claro, que no se sabe desde d\u00f3nde salen pero aterrizan en una -3\u00aa planta. S\u00e9 de ciudades que son mucho m\u00e1s peque\u00f1as que aquello, y con la d\u00e9cima parte de gente de la que se mueve por all\u00ed. Hay toda clase de comercios, restaurantes, grandes almacenes...... Y cuando sales fuera monorra\u00edles sin conductor que atraviesan edificios (s\u00ed, de parte a parte) a la altura de un 6\u00ba piso, o ascensores de esos en el exterior que suben como un cohete de cristal ni se sabe d\u00f3nde. En uno de los cientos de establecimientos comimos un okonomiyaki, delicioso, antes de salir hacia el puerto para coger el ferry. \n\nC\u00f3mo se difuminaba la ciudad, poco a poco, en el cielo de la tarde, justo al final de la estela blanca que dejaba atr\u00e1s el barco\u2026\n\n\n\nM. y yo, mientras tom\u00e1bamos un caf\u00e9 en su casa, ya de regreso en \u00d4ita, sentados en unas sillas, est\u00e1bamos bastante silenciosos. A veces uno hablaba del rumor de las olas en Kii-Katsura, toda la noche, y las luci\u00e9rnagas junto al mar... Y luego el otro hablaba del extra\u00f1o espantap\u00e1jaros autom\u00e1tico y casero de los arrozales.... Y de los campos de t\u00e9, tan verde, o del suzumebachi \u00a1qu\u00e9 miedo! \u2026. Y el otro despu\u00e9s, de aquella noche en que llov\u00eda y nos dol\u00eda la espalda sobre el suelo duro pero cant\u00f3 el hototogisu y nosotros le imit\u00e1bamos como ni\u00f1os que pasan el rato jugando sin m\u00e1s.... Y de aquellos ciervos que huyeron cuando nosotros aparecimos de entre la espesura.... O de aquellas flores tan blancas de nombre desconocido que jalonaban un valle lleno de helechos.... Recuerdo c\u00f3mo brillaban bajo la lluvia.... S\u00ed, lo recuerdo bien....\n\n\n\n\n","original_title":"Peregrinaci\u00f3n en el coraz\u00f3n de Jap\u00f3n"},"User":{"id":"8094530","name":"F\u00e9lix Arce Araiz ","username":"felixarcearaiz","has_avatar":"2","suspicious_pois_level":"0","avatar":"https:\/\/avatars.mnstatic.com\/8094530_80x80_2.jpg"},"Pictures":[{"id":"10714019","hashcode":"68757a2aeb1de55e83544951e507c72a","post_time":"2018-10-15 12:23:48","o_width":"1200","o_height":"1600","base_color":"65737F"},{"id":"10713840","hashcode":"4ab72b52fc12bb2ea65e5cf8e5affe9a","post_time":"2018-10-15 12:23:45","o_width":"1600","o_height":"1200","base_color":"65737F"},{"id":"10713829","hashcode":"1e9408ca7706d716ae82f2ccbcd3965a","post_time":"2018-10-15 12:23:45","o_width":"1200","o_height":"1600","base_color":"65737F"},{"id":"10713911","hashcode":"cdc3295f8521e58416fe1651cb73c703","post_time":"2018-10-15 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12:23:46","o_width":"1600","o_height":"1200","base_color":"65737F"},{"id":"10713996","hashcode":"f11ce3ee18d9328027c9639dc4c97a8a","post_time":"2018-10-15 12:23:48","o_width":"1200","o_height":"1600","base_color":"65737F"}],"Rating":null},{"Comment":{"id":"1826011","total_score":"35","content":"I took 7 days to make the 140km route on 6000m altitude pilgrimage to Kumano Kodo, declared in 2004 a UNESCO World Heritage. Paths and Nakahechi Kohechi go through Nachisan where the highest waterfall in Japan, Nachi-no-taki and Kumano Nachi Taisha. Through Singhu the Kumano Taisha-Hayatama encountered by the Honghu Hongu Taisha Shrine Kumano and Koyasan just over 200temples the most important, the Kongobuji.","title":"I took 7 days to make the 140km route...","hidden":0,"post_time":"2007-11-12 00:00:00","lang_flag":"fr","original_content":"J'ai pris 7jours pour faire les 140km de route sur 6000m de d\u00e9nivel\u00e9 du p\u00e8lerinage de Kumano Kodo, d\u00e9clar\u00e9 en 2004 au Patrimoine Mondial de l'Unesco. Les chemins de Nakahechi et Kohechi passent par Nachisan o\u00f9 se trouve la chute d'eau la plus \u00e9lev\u00e9e du Japon, Nachi-no-taki et le sanctuaire Kumano Taisha Nachi. En passant par Singhu, on rencontre le sanctuaire Kumano Hayatama-Taisha, par Honghu le temple Kumano Hongu Taisha et \u00e0 Koyasan un peu plus de 200temples dont le plus important, le Kongobuji.","original_title":"J'ai pris 7jours pour faire les 140km..."},"User":{"id":"70113","name":"Imma","username":"imma292","has_avatar":"3","suspicious_pois_level":"0","avatar":"https:\/\/avatars.mnstatic.com\/70113_80x80_3.jpg"},"Pictures":[{"id":"429846","hashcode":"e5149df3855f27189bd459a5ec3b62cd","post_time":"2009-09-03 20:23:04","o_width":"909","o_height":"400","base_color":"65737F"},{"id":"429845","hashcode":"fa09700b7a321b39ed850607e3be53cb","post_time":"2009-09-03 20:23:04","o_width":"400","o_height":"533","base_color":"65737F"},{"id":"429848","hashcode":"5374215ce309ecc1a42c9229c0ca007d","post_time":"2009-09-03 20:23:04","o_width":"533","o_height":"400","base_color":"65737F"},{"id":"429858","hashcode":"b37acc0a6287fce5ea508861eac5e714","post_time":"2009-09-03 20:23:04","o_width":"533","o_height":"400","base_color":"65737F"},{"id":"429864","hashcode":"e747323084bbf061b07b6782649fce52","post_time":"2009-09-03 20:23:04","o_width":"400","o_height":"533","base_color":"65737F"},{"id":"429861","hashcode":"cd74484b2cddc06345f69e0be10d4548","post_time":"2009-09-03 20:23:04","o_width":"400","o_height":"533","base_color":"65737F"},{"id":"429865","hashcode":"c7d8f99271c05232b454bdd636291c79","post_time":"2009-09-03 20:23:04","o_width":"533","o_height":"400","base_color":"65737F"},{"id":"429868","hashcode":"cd15e99b36691cd641b8e915b098a4d9","post_time":"2009-09-03 20:23:04","o_width":"533","o_height":"400","base_color":"65737F"},{"id":"429867","hashcode":"f108154a7c5287fd876e4d12afcef7b1","post_time":"2009-09-03 20:23:04","o_width":"533","o_height":"400","base_color":"65737F"},{"id":"429870","hashcode":"721726d7491e1caae48faf5cbe9aadea","post_time":"2009-09-03 20:23:04","o_width":"533","o_height":"400","base_color":"65737F"}],"Rating":null}]
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City Halls in Puebla de Arenoso

city halls in Puebla de Arenoso

City Halls in Puebla de Arenoso
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[{"Comment":{"id":"6654521","total_score":"27","content":"If you like hiking, nature, mystical places and you are passionate about Japan, you can not miss the opportunity to do a few kilometers of the path of Kumano and discover its temples. It is not necessary that you all do it on foot. This road allows you to make them by car, bus or as best you can and according to the route.","title":"It is not necessary that you do all of them on foot","hidden":0,"post_time":"2018-09-15 17:42:45","lang_flag":"es","original_content":"Si te gusta el senderismo, la naturaleza, los lugares m\u00edsticos y eres un apasionado de Jap\u00f3n, no puedes dejar pasar la oportunidad de hacer unos kil\u00f3metros del camino de Kumano y descubrir sus templos. No es necesario que los hagas todos a pie. Este camino permite hacerlos en coche, bus o como mejor te venga y seg\u00fan la ruta. ","original_title":"No es necesario que los hagas todos a pie"},"User":{"id":"8084978","name":"Cristina R.","username":"cristinar898","has_avatar":"0","suspicious_pois_level":"0","avatar":"https:\/\/avatars.mnstatic.com\/noavt_3_80x80.png"},"Pictures":[{"id":"10696958","hashcode":"07ea5e0fb2f11cb362f7c6b734dc5521","post_time":"2018-09-15 17:42:52","o_width":"3264","o_height":"2448","base_color":"65737F"},{"id":"10696959","hashcode":"327f68baa4b66eff3fd8b2f792500d1f","post_time":"2018-09-15 17:42:52","o_width":"3264","o_height":"2448","base_color":"65737F"}],"Rating":"5"},{"Comment":{"id":"6658819","total_score":"23","content":"As you walk through its forests and embrace the ancient trees, you reach the Peace of spirit and wish to return and return ... I will return","title":"As you walk through its forests and...","hidden":0,"post_time":"2018-10-06 16:50:04","lang_flag":"es","original_content":"Al caminar por sus bosques y abrazar los \u00e1rboles centenarios ,alcanza la Paz de esp\u00edritu y deseas volver y volver... Volver\u00e9","original_title":"Volver\u00e9"},"User":{"id":"5160718","name":"Jaume Compte Urpi","username":"jaumecompteurpi","has_avatar":"1","suspicious_pois_level":"0","avatar":"https:\/\/avatars.mnstatic.com\/5160718_80x80.jpg"},"Pictures":[{"id":"10708300","hashcode":"83d9acbb7554e6f38827d5974a7e7941","post_time":"2018-10-06 16:51:13","o_width":"1200","o_height":"1600","base_color":"65737F"},{"id":"10708309","hashcode":"e7eda3e160e0c563ebdb39275d5d670f","post_time":"2018-10-06 16:51:14","o_width":"1200","o_height":"1600","base_color":"65737F"},{"id":"10708308","hashcode":"88854f5df2c223e93a0892bf81224603","post_time":"2018-10-06 16:51:14","o_width":"2448","o_height":"3264","base_color":"65737F"},{"id":"10708307","hashcode":"117e5a12799c89f1a66eaad88e11daa9","post_time":"2018-10-06 16:51:14","o_width":"1600","o_height":"1200","base_color":"65737F"},{"id":"10708306","hashcode":"46b311a165f93383277dab0e81c48683","post_time":"2018-10-06 16:51:14","o_width":"3264","o_height":"2448","base_color":"65737F"},{"id":"10708305","hashcode":"2cf81cc612f8000084b686c5105d1ac5","post_time":"2018-10-06 16:51:14","o_width":"3264","o_height":"2448","base_color":"65737F"},{"id":"10708304","hashcode":"ab96ca2c6be65a6df9427661416d6f08","post_time":"2018-10-06 16:51:14","o_width":"1200","o_height":"1600","base_color":"65737F"},{"id":"10708303","hashcode":"dfbee578c83d826c0d77748b57710dbf","post_time":"2018-10-06 16:51:13","o_width":"1600","o_height":"1200","base_color":"65737F"},{"id":"10708302","hashcode":"b92dba3c363d3e3c09e2a78e249fe6d3","post_time":"2018-10-06 16:51:13","o_width":"3264","o_height":"2448","base_color":"65737F"},{"id":"10708301","hashcode":"89f8b774af9f43c9d1adf86f8ed3888d","post_time":"2018-10-06 16:51:13","o_width":"3264","o_height":"2448","base_color":"65737F"}],"Rating":"5"},{"Comment":{"id":"6660501","total_score":"15","content":"Sometimes, only sometimes, you believe a bit pretentiously that you are back from everything. And it is then, when you least expect it, always like this, when you realize that you had not even gone. They say that for Kumano Kod\u014d they have walked so many steps that even the wind is already a pilgrim. Buddhist monks and Shintoist pilgrims, daimyos and ladies of the court, poor and rich, ascetics and geishas, \u200b\u200bdisembodied spirits and emaciated feet on pauper sandals. All looking for something. I suppose. There are others, others who walk by, or seek without seeking. I suppose. Kumano Kod\u014d is an old pilgrimage road (roads rather) that cross the Kii Peninsula, in Honsh\u00fb. It is a mountainous and forested place, surprisingly isolated from the industrialized and ultramodern Japan that is so familiar to us. There are some of the temples, sanctuaries, even the very sacred mountains of Japan. Kii is the heart, the soul, of mythical and secular Japan, of the spiritual and ancestral identity of the Japanese people. More than a thousand years ago, the emperor and his court made pilgrimages to some of those sanctuaries, in a rite of identification and regeneration of that mythical and divine spirit that forms the Japanese identity. Afterwards, people of all walks walked on those routes that intersect between the tree-covered mountains. Kumano Kod\u014d .... The Nakahechi route, as I said before there are several pilgrimage routes throughout the Kii Peninsula, crosses this from west to east. The traditional thing is to start the trip in Takiji-oji, (you can take a bus from Tanabe, on the coast, to here). Here is very practical information about Kumano Kod\u00f4 routes, with detailed maps and plans. http:\/\/www.tb-kumano.jp\/es\/kumano-kodo\/ I do not know but I\"m struggling to write this. I\"m not sure what to tell. Walking ... walking is traveling, and not only goes somewhere. Because, in fact, where are you going in Kumano Kod\u00f4? Where is a guy like me, a guy who comes and goes, just like that, like a shred of cloud that gives way to the invitation of the wind. I thought that Kumano would be something like the Camino de Santiago, (in fact there I met M. my traveling companion) but, but ... Not only do you change the hat or the cap for the kasa (that typical hat from reed so Japanese) and the hazel bord\u00f3n by a bamboo stick (enormous that brought from M. of house, we seemed three pilgrims and not two), is that here one does not have a defined destiny. Here the roads intersect. There are pilgrims who go to one place and others who go to another. There are some clear reference points but one sometimes has the feeling that it just goes up and down mountains, without more. The mountains ... The overwhelming mountains of Kumano. Green. So green in the moss and in the leaves of the trees, in the plants without the name. So green everything the rain touches. \"Deko boko\" M. repeats it often. Steep. Up and down. Up and down. The road looks for peaks and ridges. There dwell the gods and their word. Because here is nature the temple and the measure of things and steps. The columns and archivolts are the centenary trunks of the gigantic cypresses. And I remember looking up and seeing the sky disintegrated among its dark branches. Walk wrapped in incense flavored with cedar and pine, to rain, and only the rivers and streams that roll down, swiftly, without stopping, murmuring prayers in living languages. Do you know? Here the stained glass windows are made by spiders and caterpillars with their silks visible only after the rain. I remember feeling his touch on my skin when I walked at dawn. And the dew trapped in them. Shining ... There is something special when you walk. When you start the road and feel the weight of the backpack on your back, you put on your hat and grab the bamboo stick something changes inside. Something that you do not know very well how to explain but that is as forceful and real as the hardness of the earth underfoot. Things change. The importance of things I want to say. There are things that begin to be valued for what they weigh and not for what they are, or for what we assign them to be. And is that friends, how things weigh. These things that make life so easy and so comfortable, (and it is true that they do), how they weigh. One ends up walking with the essential (there is no other choice) and thinking about very short time limits: this afternoon, tomorrow ... The loneliness. I think we met four pilgrims throughout the trip. And among us we did not talk much. Between our pitiful spanjanglish and that we were breathless most of the time the silence pilgrimage along with us for miles. Well, the night, that\"s what it was. To find a suitable place to assemble the small shop of those igloo. Sometimes the grass was dry, sometimes the rain was covered with grass. We have set up the shop in the most unsuspected places you can imagine. From a piece of hard and bare ground next to a sanctuary because there was no other dry place, even in the breakwater and in Kii-Katsura at the end of the trip. We had dinner at night sashimi after the onsen (we gave ourselves the luxury as the end of the trip) and we did at night looking for a beach that did not exist in fact ... That\"s right. God protects innocence, as my father said, and one afternoon we had the immense luck of being welcomed by a retired couple in the garden of their home. Joppe In my backpack I have hanging the santiaguera scallop and when we climbed a hill (of course) next to some houses with terraced rice paddies thinking where we were going to be able to camp a people who had there greeted us and one of them said: Santugu Compasutera (or something well) It turns out that the good sir recognized the scallop. The lady of the house was with some friends, and chatting with each other, good M. chatted. It must have been the most exotic of course. The good lady offered us her garden so that we could camp that night. They were with some friends and we had coffee, not tea, and even the lady gave us a cake. And when the husband appeared, it turns out that the man was Catholic (I suppose the only Japanese Catholic in a thousand miles around). Ay ... We exchanged addresses, we took photos ... I remember that afternoon because the swallows flew so low over the rice paddies that I could almost touch them with my hand. And in the sky some clouds were barely clouds, becoming heaven. I remember that the sun fell slowly behind the mountains and M. and I joked animated by the luck that we had had. Because we had soft grass under the back and the warmth of a quiet night on the skin. I remember that I felt the need to write a letter. Say something ... - Here you are, because here I feel you, in all this beauty that surrounds me. In this moment. In this precise moment in which the frogs do not stop croaking and the dragonflies float in the breeze that touches the rice fields. Here you are. Here you are because with me you go. Forever. Because in you I am-. But I did not write. I had the paper in front, a couple of sheets that I kept from the Koya-san monastery, but the night fell fast on us. And us in the soft grass that smelled of grass. And already in the store I thought about the thousand voices of the frogs. All were different. - Everything is different - I thought. As the sound of the air between the leaves of the poplars is different than between the leaves of the pines ... The next morning (here the day dawns around 4:30) we picked up the tent without noise so as not to disturb and we left. We do not look back. The scallop, a rattle, the bamboo rod (in some important sanctuaries there are rods left by pilgrims before returning home for others to use, let\"s say they are rods lent by the road itself, although it is not obligatory to leave them and you can take home) and the kasa (the rush hat that I bought at the beginning for M\"s rejoicing, but the same for the sun as for the drizzle or for the lower branches and leaves of the path). A) Yes. Up and down. Deko boko. Sometimes by ladders of steps half eaten by the roots of the trees, sometimes by mere paths between the trees. And the green The color that invades everything. The forest is so closed that sometimes I did not realize when it was raining or stopped raining. Only in a small clearing felt the drops on my hat and saw the dry leaves of the ground wet by the rain. But sometimes it rained seriously. I think it was raining. And then the crabs came out everywhere, on the road, among the grass. They look like sea. Round and plump they, what nice. But with bad milk. If someone is as furious as I am and insists on playing with them, it will take a good pinch, in my faith yes. One night the prairie where we pretended to camp was so wet that the crabs walked there by the dozens, like this, as if hiding, as they do, and it was almost scary to plant the tent on top of one. And the frogs so green and bright, the black salamanders with the red belly and the jet-black eyes, the silent worms exploring the rain. All the creatures that on earth live but to the water belong accompanied then our steps. What forests those in which even the sky was green. And the mountain ascended and ascended towards the next mountain. And sometimes a statue of Jiz\u014d, or a grave, or a prayer written on a stone. And always the moss, the raindrops lingering for a moment on the edge of the leaves before turning into water only. And on the summits the tangled clouds, fraying between the cedars and the cypresses and the thousand different trees that inhabit these forests. And I ... I make water while I feel the breath I need while I\"m wrapped in that greenish light. I felt it would be moss here and now, rain on the soft grass. I looking at the dazzling whiteness of the flowers that tremble in my step. Me without being me in the infinite path that weaves watersheds and mountain crests sustained only by the roots of the trees. Breathless. Only one step. One more step. There will always be one more step, one beyond. Each step is an event, now it is. And the rattle sounds, tireless. At each step, in each of my heartbeats that resonate here, among the trees, and they get lost making themselves silent. Its pure tinkle reminds me of who I am. I could die here and now wrapped in this beauty that suffocates me and I would not even notice. And at the top always the butterflies and the dragonflies. It\"s curious. Dragonflies Here. What will they look for, pilgrimage here? What mysteries And then again to go down. To the valley, to the river, to the next slope. One day it rained all afternoon we went through a strange place with inscriptions that seemed to indicate a detour. I do not understand the kanji so I asked M. He told me something about an old cemetery. I remember the silence that sounded at that moment. I knew he would not go. His look told me. He knew that I would go. He already knows me enough. I crossed the dry channel of a river, sometimes crossing a dry riverbed is very important, I understood it then. I thought of Sant\u00f4ka. The dry riverbed was wet from the rain. I walked through thick vegetation that filled my clothes with water almost immediately. The path disappeared. The truth is that the place imposed. I did not see the Buddhist haka anywhere. I continued A mossy footbridge full of verd\u00edn crossed a stream. I looked for a place to jump the stream because I told myself that I did not set foot there. On the other bank the hillside was steep and the trees twisted dark. It was just after three o\"clock and it seemed like it was getting dark, I swear. I am not superstitious but if the ghosts exist, or the y\u00f4kai, on my faith they lived there. Suggestion? I dont know. But I swear the forest breathed and throbbed next to me. And he watched me. I felt an intruder there. And the rain on my raincoat kept rattling. That rain so fine ... When I came back to M. he asked me if I had seen anything. I never asked him if it was only the cemetery he was referring to. Takijiri-oji, Takahara-oji, Osakamoto-oji, Gyuba-oji, Hosshimon-oji, Mizunomi-oji ... And so up to ninety-nine the legend says ... No, there are not so many. The oji are small sanctuaries, or altars, and propitious places to rest awhile, which mark the Kumano Kod\u00f4. Sometimes little more than an engraved rock, an altar or a shimenawa, other times true sanctuaries shinto with its torii and its small pavilion. From oji to oji, from mountain to mountain, from amazement to amazement, we arrive at Kumano Hong\u016b Taisha, a fundamental sanctuary in Japanese Shintoism and with a gigantic torii over the rice fields. But we who are like that, because we follow Nachi Taisha. There, apart from a shinto shrine and a Buddhist temple, there is an impressive waterfall, the highest waterfall in Japan, and perhaps the most beautiful waterfall I have ever seen. So, from the paddies full of tadpoles and with the traces of who planted the rice still in the mud, under the water, we ascended to the mountain of Nachi Taisha. And the trees, the flowers, the butterflies ..... Sometimes I remember thinking \"will it always be the same butterfly?\" Always when I ascended the mountains, always to my left, always of that species that I have only seen here, black, huge, with the edges of the wings white and red. Always beautiful on the air that does not weigh, oblivious to the things that make life so easy because she herself is the ease of life, its natural and pure simplicity. And sometimes I thought that she thought \"will it always be the same pilgrim?\" Always ascending mountains, always to my right, always of that rare type that I have only seen here, with his bamboo and his reed hat, with his scallop. Always with that bell that tinkles with a pure and beautiful sound, oblivious to words, time and sadness. Because it is peace what is here, and it sounds and floats in the air. Kumano Kod\u014d. I walk towards the depths of oneself. To touch the peaks where to recognize what one is. What one is always and every step. Where the dragonflies fly without us knowing why, without knowing what they are looking for. And there, at last, the water that came down from the mountains, which was cloud and sea, and rain and stream and river, rushes into the void. The noise is deafening in the silence that floods the world. And there, at last, I who was path and moss, I who was tired and pain, and joy and peace, I rush silent in the thunderous noise that floods the emptiness of my soul. And I watch. Going back to Osaka was a shock. We were half limping and stubborn. M.\"s back hurt so the poor man looked like the bag man walking with his backpack. His bamboo \"pole\" lost it on the bus so we were two again. I could have taken mine with me but I preferred that she stay on pilgrimage forever, the eternity assigned to the bamboo, I mean, for the mountains that gave her life and for me the steps. Before, however, I cut with my Swiss Army knife a small ring from its end to continue accompanying my pilgrimage. Well, we got lost in the Osaka subways. In the countless halls and corridors under the railway and metro stations. Water cascades, these artificial clear, that is not known from where they leave but land on a -3rd floor. I know of cities that are much smaller than that, and with the tenth of people who move around there. There are all kinds of shops, restaurants, department stores ... And when you go out monorails without driver who cross buildings (yes, part by part) at the height of a 6th floor, or elevators of those on the outside that They go up like a glass rocket, you do not know where. In one of the hundreds of establishments we ate an okonomiyaki, delicious, before leaving for the port to catch the ferry. How the city faded, little by little, in the afternoon sky, just at the end of the white wake that left the boat behind ... M. and I, while having a coffee at home, already back in \u00d4ita, sitting In some chairs, we were quite silent. Sometimes one spoke of the sound of the waves in Kii-Katsura, all night, and the fireflies by the sea ... And then the other spoke of the strange automatic and homemade scarecrow of the rice fields ... And of the fields of tea, so green, or suzumebachi, how scary! ... And the other after, that night when it rained and our back hurt on the hard ground but sang the hototogisu and we imitated him like children who spend their time playing without more ... And those deer that fled when we appeared from among the thickets ... Or those white flowers with an unknown name that marked a valley full of ferns ... I remember how they shone in the rain ... Yes, I remember it well ...","title":"Pilgrimage in the heart of Japan","hidden":0,"post_time":"2018-10-15 12:23:45","lang_flag":"es","original_content":"\nA veces, s\u00f3lo a veces, uno cree un tanto pretenciosamente que ya est\u00e1 de vuelta de todo. Y es entonces, cuando menos lo esperas, siempre as\u00ed, cuando te das cuenta de que ni siquiera hab\u00edas ido.\n\n\nCuentan que por el Kumano Kod\u014d han caminado tantos pasos que hasta el viento es ya peregrino. Monjes budistas y peregrinos shintoistas, daimyos y damas de la corte, pobres y ricos, ascetas y geishas, esp\u00edritus desencarnados y descarnados pies sobre paup\u00e9rrimas sandalias. Todos buscando algo. Supongo.\n\n\nHay otros, otros que andan por andar, o buscan sin buscar. Supongo.\n\n\nKumano Kod\u014d es un antiguo camino (caminos m\u00e1s bien) de peregrinaci\u00f3n que recorren la Pen\u00ednsula de Kii, en Honsh\u00fb. Es un lugar monta\u00f1oso y cubierto de bosques, sorprendentemente aislado del Jap\u00f3n industrializado y ultramoderno que nos es tan familiar. All\u00ed se encuentran algunos de los templos, santuarios, incluso las propias monta\u00f1as, m\u00e1s sagrados de Jap\u00f3n. Kii es el coraz\u00f3n, el alma, del Jap\u00f3n m\u00edtico y secular, de la identidad espiritual y ancestral del pueblo japon\u00e9s. Hace m\u00e1s de mil a\u00f1os el emperador y su corte peregrinaba por algunos de esos santuarios, en un rito de identificaci\u00f3n y regeneraci\u00f3n de ese esp\u00edritu m\u00edtico y divino que conforma la identidad japonesa. Despu\u00e9s, personas de toda condici\u00f3n caminaron por esas rutas que se entrecruzan entre las monta\u00f1as cubiertas de \u00e1rboles.\n\n\n\nKumano Kod\u014d....\n\n\nLa ruta Nakahechi, como dec\u00eda antes hay varias rutas de peregrinaci\u00f3n a lo largo y ancho de la Pen\u00ednsula de Kii, atraviesa esta de oeste a este. Lo tradicional es comenzar el viaje en Takiji-oji, (se puede coger un autob\u00fas desde Tanabe, en la costa, hasta aqu\u00ed).\n\n\nAqu\u00ed hay informaci\u00f3n muy pr\u00e1ctica sobre las rutas de Kumano Kod\u00f4, con mapas y planos detallados.\n\n\nhttp:\/\/www.tb-kumano.jp\/es\/kumano-kodo\/\n\n\n\n\nNo s\u00e9 pero me est\u00e1 costando escribir esto. No s\u00e9 muy bien qu\u00e9 contar.\nCaminar\u2026 caminando se viaja, y no s\u00f3lo se va a alg\u00fan sitio.\n\nPorque, de hecho, \u00bfa d\u00f3nde vas en Kumano Kod\u00f4? D\u00f3nde va un tipo como yo, un tipo que va y viene, as\u00ed sin m\u00e1s, como jir\u00f3n de nube que cede a la invitaci\u00f3n del viento. Pensaba yo que Kumano ser\u00eda algo as\u00ed como el Camino de Santiago, (de hecho all\u00ed conoc\u00ed a M. mi compa\u00f1ero de viaje) pero, pero.... No s\u00f3lo es que cambies el sombrero o la gorra por el kasa (ese t\u00edpico sombrero de junco tan japon\u00e9s) y el bord\u00f3n de avellano por una vara de bamb\u00fa (enorme la que trajo de M. de casa, parec\u00edamos tres peregrinos y no dos), es que aqu\u00ed uno no tiene un destino definido. Aqu\u00ed los caminos se entrecruzan. Hay peregrinos que van a un sitio y otros que van a otro. Hay algunos lugares de referencia claro pero uno a veces tiene la sensaci\u00f3n de que se limita a subir y bajar monta\u00f1as, sin m\u00e1s.\n\n\nLas monta\u00f1as... Las monta\u00f1as sobrecogedoras de Kumano. Verdes. Tan verdes en el musgo y en las hojas de los \u00e1rboles, en las plantas sinnombre. Tan verde todo lo que la lluvia toca.\n\n\n\u201cDeko boko\u201d M. lo repite a menudo. Escarpado. Arriba y abajo. Subir y bajar. El camino busca las cumbres y las crestas. All\u00ed moran los dioses y su palabra.\nPorque aqu\u00ed es la naturaleza el templo y la medida de las cosas y de los pasos.\nLas columnas y arquivoltas son los troncos centenarios de los cipreses gigantescos. Y recuerdo levantar la vista y ver el cielo desintegrado entre sus ramas oscuras. Caminar envuelto en el incienso con sabor a cedro y pino, a lluvia, y s\u00f3lo los r\u00edos y arroyos que ruedan abajo, raudos, sin detenerse nunca, murmurar oraciones en lenguajes vivos.\n\n\u00bfSab\u00e9is? Aqu\u00ed las vidrieras las construyen las ara\u00f1as y las orugas con sus sedas s\u00f3lo visibles tras la lluvia. Recuerdo sentir su tacto sobre mi piel cuando caminaba al amanecer. Y el roc\u00edo atrapado en ellas. Brillando...\n\n\n\nHay algo especial cuando uno camina. Cuando comienzas el camino y sientes el peso de la mochila en la espalda, te pones el sombrero y agarras el palo de bamb\u00fa algo cambia dentro. Algo que no sabes muy bien c\u00f3mo explicar pero que es tan contundente y real como la dureza de la tierra bajo los pies. Las cosas cambian. La importancia de las cosas quiero decir. Hay cosas que comienzan a valorarse por lo que pesan y no por lo que son, o por lo que nosotros le adjudicamos que son.\n\n\nY es que amigos, c\u00f3mo pesan las cosas. Estas cosas que nos hacen la vida tan f\u00e1cil y tan c\u00f3moda, (y es verdad que la hacen), c\u00f3mo pesan. Uno acaba caminando con lo imprescindible (no hay m\u00e1s remedio) y pensando en l\u00edmites temporales muy cortos: esta tarde, ma\u00f1ana...\n\n\nLa soledad. Creo que nos cruzamos con cuatro peregrinos en todo el viaje. Y entre nosotros no habl\u00e1bamos mucho. Entre nuestro spanjanglish lamentable y que est\u00e1bamos sin resuello las m\u00e1s de las veces el silencio peregrinaba junto a nosotros durante kil\u00f3metros.\n\n\nY bueno, la noche, a eso iba. A buscar un sitio apropiado para montar la tiendecilla de esas igl\u00fa. A veces la hierba estaba seca, a veces la lluvia estaba cubierta de hierba. Hemos montado la tienda en los sitios m\u00e1s insospechados que pod\u00e1is imaginar. Desde un cacho de tierra dur\u00edsima y pelada junto a un santuario porque no hab\u00eda otro sitio seco, hasta en pleno rompeolas ya en Kii-Katsura al final del viaje. Se nos hizo de noche cenando sashimi despu\u00e9s del onsen (nos dimos el lujo como final del viaje) y se nos hizo de noche buscando una playa que de hecho no exist\u00eda....\n\n\nEso s\u00ed. Dios protege la inocencia, ya lo dec\u00eda mi padre, y una tarde tuvimos la inmensa suerte de ser acogidos por una pareja de jubilados en el jard\u00edn de su casa. Jope. En mi mochila llevo colgando la vieira santiaguera y cuando sub\u00edamos una cuesta (c\u00f3mo no) junto a unas casitas con sus arrozales aterrazados pensando d\u00f3nde \u00edbamos a poder acampar una gente que hab\u00eda por all\u00ed nos salud\u00f3 y uno de ellos dijo: Santugu Compasutera (o algo as\u00ed) Resulta que el buen se\u00f1or reconoci\u00f3 la vieira. La se\u00f1ora de la casa estaba con unos amigos, y charlando con unos y con otros, bueno M. charlaba. Deb\u00eda de resultar de lo m\u00e1s ex\u00f3tico claro. La buena se\u00f1ora nos ofreci\u00f3 su jard\u00edn para que acamp\u00e1ramos esa noche. Estaban con unos amigos y tomamos caf\u00e9, no t\u00e9, y hasta la se\u00f1ora nos dio un pastel. Y cuando apareci\u00f3 el marido resulta que el se\u00f1or era cat\u00f3lico (supongo que el \u00fanico japon\u00e9s cat\u00f3lico en mil millas a la redonda). Ay.... Intercambiamos direcciones, hicimos fotos\u2026\n\n\nRecuerdo aquella tarde porque las golondrinas volaban tan bajo sobre los arrozales que casi pod\u00eda tocarlas con la mano. Y en el cielo unas nubes apenas eran ya nubes, haci\u00e9ndose cielo. Recuerdo que el sol cay\u00f3 lentamente tras las monta\u00f1as y M. y yo brome\u00e1bamos animados por la suerte que hab\u00edamos tenido. Porque ten\u00edamos hierba blanda bajo la espalda y la tibieza de una noche tranquila sobre la piel. Recuerdo que sent\u00ed la necesidad de escribir una carta.\n\n\nDecir algo\u2026\n\n\n-Aqu\u00ed est\u00e1s, porque aqu\u00ed te siento, en toda esta belleza que me rodea. En este instante. En este preciso instante en el que las ranas no dejan de croar y las lib\u00e9lulas flotan en la brisa que toca los arrozales. Aqu\u00ed est\u00e1s. Aqu\u00ed est\u00e1s porque conmigo vas. Siempre. Porque en ti soy-.\n\n\nPero no escrib\u00ed. Ten\u00eda el papel delante, un par de hojas que guard\u00e9 del monasterio de K\u014dya-san, pero la noche cay\u00f3 veloz sobre nosotros. Y nosotros en la hierba blanda que ol\u00eda a hierba. Y ya en la tienda pensaba en las mil voces de las ranas. Todas eran diferentes. -Todo es diferente- pens\u00e9. Como el sonido del aire entre las hojas de los chopos es diferente que entre las hojas de los pinos\u2026\n\nA la ma\u00f1ana siguiente (aqu\u00ed raya el alba en torno a las 4:30) recogimos la tienda sin ruido para no molestar y partimos. No miramos atr\u00e1s.\n\nLa vieira, un cascabel, la vara de bamb\u00fa (en algunos santuarios importantes hay varas que peregrinos dejaron antes de volver a casa all\u00ed para que otros las usen, digamos que son varas prestadas por el propio camino, aunque no es obligatorio dejarlas y te las puedes llevar a casa) y el kasa (el sombrero de junco que me compr\u00e9 al inicio para regocijo de M. pero que me vino de maravilla lo mismo para el sol que para la llovizna o para las ramas y hojas bajas del sendero). As\u00ed. Arriba y abajo. Deko boko. A veces por escaleras de pelda\u00f1os medio devorados por las ra\u00edces de los \u00e1rboles, a veces por meras sendas entre los \u00e1rboles.\n\n\nY el verde. El color que lo invade todo. El bosque es tan cerrado que yo a veces no me daba cuenta de cu\u00e1ndo llov\u00eda o dejaba de llover. S\u00f3lo en un peque\u00f1o claro sent\u00eda las gotas sobre mi sombrero y ve\u00eda las hojas secas del suelo mojadas por la lluvia. Pero a veces llov\u00eda en serio. Ya lo creo que llov\u00eda. Y entonces los cangrejos sal\u00edan por todas partes, en el camino, entre la hierba. Parecen de mar. Redondos y rechonchos ellos, qu\u00e9 majos. Pero con mala leche. Si alguien es tan pelma como yo y se empe\u00f1a en jugar con ellos se llevar\u00e1 un buen pellizco, a fe m\u00eda que s\u00ed. Una noche la pradera donde pretend\u00edamos acampar estaba tan mojada que los cangrejos andaban por all\u00ed a docenas, as\u00ed de lado, como disimulando, como hacen ellos, y casi daba miedo plantar la tienda encima de alguno.\n\n\nY las ranas tan verdes y brillantes, las salamandras negras de vientre rojo y ojos como azabache, las lombrices silenciosas explorando la lluvia. Todas las criaturas que en la tierra viven pero al agua pertenecen acompa\u00f1aban entonces nuestros pasos.\n\nQu\u00e9 bosques aquellos en los que hasta el cielo era verde. Y la monta\u00f1a ascend\u00eda y ascend\u00eda hacia la siguiente monta\u00f1a. Y a veces una estatua de Jiz\u014d, o una tumba, o una oraci\u00f3n escrita en una piedra. Y siempre el musgo, las gotas de lluvia demor\u00e1ndose un instante en el borde las hojas antes de hacerse agua tan s\u00f3lo. Y en las cumbres las nubes enredadas, deshilach\u00e1ndose entre los cedros y los cipreses y los mil \u00e1rboles diferentes que habitan estos bosques.\n\n\nY yo... yo haci\u00e9ndome agua mientras siento que el aliento me falta mientras asciendo envuelto en esa luz verdosa. Yo sintiendo que ser\u00eda musgo aqu\u00ed y ahora, lluvia sobre la hierba blanda. Yo mirando la blancura deslumbrante de las flores que tiemblan a mi paso. Yo sin ser yo en la senda infinita que hilvana vertientes y crestea monta\u00f1as sostenida tan s\u00f3lo por las ra\u00edces de los \u00e1rboles.\n\n\nSin aliento. S\u00f3lo un paso. Un paso m\u00e1s. Siempre habr\u00e1 un paso m\u00e1s, uno m\u00e1s all\u00e1. Cada paso es un acontecimiento, ahora s\u00ed. Y el cascabel suena, incansable. A cada paso, en cada uno de mis latidos que resuenan aqu\u00ed, entre los \u00e1rboles, y se pierden haci\u00e9ndose silencio. Su tintineo puro me recuerda qui\u00e9n soy. Podr\u00eda morir aqu\u00ed y ahora envuelto en esta belleza que me asfixia y ni siquiera me dar\u00eda cuenta.\n\nY en la cumbre siempre las mariposas y las lib\u00e9lulas. Es curioso. Lib\u00e9lulas. Aqu\u00ed. Qu\u00e9 buscar\u00e1n ellas peregrinando hasta aqu\u00ed. Qu\u00e9 misterios. Y despu\u00e9s de nuevo a bajar. Al valle, al r\u00edo, a la siguiente pendiente.\n\n\nUn d\u00eda que llovi\u00f3 toda la tarde pasamos por un lugar extra\u00f1o con unas inscripciones que parec\u00edan se\u00f1alar un desv\u00edo. Yo no entiendo los kanji as\u00ed que le pregunt\u00e9 a M. Me dijo algo de un cementerio antiguo. Recuerdo el silencio que son\u00f3 en ese momento. Yo sab\u00eda que \u00e9l no ir\u00eda. Me lo dec\u00eda su mirada. \u00c9l sab\u00eda que yo ir\u00eda. Me conoce ya lo suficiente. Cruc\u00e9 el cauce seco de un r\u00edo, a veces cruzar un cauce seco es muy importante, lo entend\u00ed entonces. Pens\u00e9 en Sant\u00f4ka. El cauce seco estaba mojado por la lluvia. Camin\u00e9 por una vegetaci\u00f3n espesa que me llen\u00f3 de agua la ropa casi inmediatamente. La senda desapareci\u00f3. La verdad es que el lugar impon\u00eda. Yo no ve\u00eda las haka budistas por ning\u00fan lado. Continu\u00e9. Una pasarela musgosa y llena de verd\u00edn atravesaba un arroyo. Busqu\u00e9 un sitio para saltar el arroyo porque me dije a m\u00ed mismo que yo all\u00ed no pon\u00eda un pie. En la otra orilla la ladera se empinaba y los \u00e1rboles se retorc\u00edan oscuros. Eran poco m\u00e1s de las tres y parec\u00eda que anochec\u00eda, lo juro.\n\nYo no soy supersticioso pero si los fantasmas existen, o los y\u00f4kai, a fe m\u00eda que all\u00ed habitaban. \u00bfSugesti\u00f3n? No s\u00e9. Pero juro que el bosque respiraba y palpitaba junto a m\u00ed. Y me contemplaba. Me sent\u00eda un intruso all\u00ed. Y la lluvia sobre mi chubasquero no dejaba de repiquetear. Aquella lluvia tan fina\u2026\n\n\nCuando volv\u00ed junto a M.me pregunt\u00f3 si hab\u00eda visto algo. Nunca le pregunt\u00e9 si era s\u00f3lo al cementerio a lo que se refer\u00eda.\n\n\n\nTakijiri-oji, Takahara-oji, Osakamoto-oji, Gyuba-oji, Hosshimon-oji, Mizunomi-oji\u2026. Y as\u00ed hasta noventa y nueve dice la leyenda\u2026 No, no hay tantos. Los oji son peque\u00f1os santuarios, o altares, y lugares propicios para descansar un rato, que jalonan el Kumano Kod\u00f4. A veces poco m\u00e1s que una roca grabada, un altar o una shimenawa, otras veces verdaderos santuarios shinto con su torii y su peque\u00f1o pabell\u00f3n. \n\n\nDe oji en oji, de monta\u00f1a en monta\u00f1a, de asombro en asombro, llegamos a Kumano Hong\u016b Taisha, un santuario fundamental en el shintoismo japon\u00e9s y con un torii gigantesco sobre los arrozales. Pero nosotros que somos as\u00ed, pues seguimos a Nachi Taisha. All\u00ed aparte de un santuario shinto y un templo budista hay una cascada impresionante, la m\u00e1s alta de Jap\u00f3n, y quiz\u00e1 la m\u00e1s bella que yo haya visto.\n\n\nAs\u00ed que desde los arrozales cuajados de renacuajos y con las huellas de quien plant\u00f3 el arroz a\u00fan en el barro, bajo el agua, ascendimos hasta la monta\u00f1a de Nachi Taisha. Y los \u00e1rboles, las flores, las mariposas.....\n\nA veces recuerdo que pensaba \"\u00bfser\u00e1 siempre la misma mariposa?\" Siempre cuando ascend\u00eda por las monta\u00f1as, siempre a mi izquierda, siempre de esa especie que s\u00f3lo he visto aqu\u00ed, negra, enorme, con los bordes de las alas blancos y rojos. Siempre hermosa sobre el aire que no pesa, ajena a las cosas que hacen la vida tan f\u00e1cil porque ella misma es la facilidad de la vida, su sencillez natural y pura.\n\nY a veces pensaba que ella pensaba \"\u00bfser\u00e1 siempre el mismo peregrino?\" Siempre ascendiendo monta\u00f1as, siempre a mi derecha, siempre de ese tipo tan raro que s\u00f3lo he visto aqu\u00ed, con su bamb\u00fa y su sombrero de junco, con su vieira. Siempre con ese cascabel que tintinea con un sonido puro y bello, ajeno a las palabras, al tiempo y a la tristeza. Porque es paz lo que aqu\u00ed hay, y suena y flota en el aire.\n\n\n\nKumano Kod\u014d. Camino hacia lo m\u00e1s profundo de uno mismo. Hasta tocar las cumbres donde reconocer lo que uno es. Lo que uno es siempre y a cada paso. Donde las lib\u00e9lulas vuelan sin que sepamos por qu\u00e9, sin que sepamos lo que buscan.\n\nY all\u00ed, al fin, el agua que baj\u00f3 de las monta\u00f1as, que fue nube y mar, y lluvia y arroyo y r\u00edo, se precipita al vac\u00edo. El ruido es ensordecedor en el silencio que inunda el mundo. Y all\u00ed, al fin, yo que fui sendero y musgo, yo que fui cansancio y dolor, y alegr\u00eda y paz, me precipito silencioso en el ruido atronador que inunda el vac\u00edo de mi alma. Y contemplo.\n\nVolver a Osaka fue un shock. And\u00e1bamos medio renqueantes y agujetosos. A M. le dol\u00eda la espalda as\u00ed que el pobre parec\u00eda el hombre del saco caminando con la mochila. Su \u201cp\u00e9rtiga\u201d de bamb\u00fa la perdi\u00f3 en el bus as\u00ed que \u00e9ramos dos de nuevo. Yo pod\u00eda haberme llevado la m\u00eda de recuero pero prefer\u00ed que se quedara peregrinando eternamente, la eternidad asignada al bamb\u00fa quiero decir, por las monta\u00f1as que le dieron la vida y a m\u00ed los pasos. Antes, sin embargo, cort\u00e9 con mi navaja suiza un peque\u00f1o anillo de su extremo para que contin\u00fae acompa\u00f1ando mi peregrinar.\n\nBueno, pues en los subterr\u00e1neos de Osaka nos perdimos. En las innumerables salas y pasillos bajo las estaciones de ferrocarril y metro. Cascadas de agua, \u00e9stas artificiales claro, que no se sabe desde d\u00f3nde salen pero aterrizan en una -3\u00aa planta. S\u00e9 de ciudades que son mucho m\u00e1s peque\u00f1as que aquello, y con la d\u00e9cima parte de gente de la que se mueve por all\u00ed. Hay toda clase de comercios, restaurantes, grandes almacenes...... Y cuando sales fuera monorra\u00edles sin conductor que atraviesan edificios (s\u00ed, de parte a parte) a la altura de un 6\u00ba piso, o ascensores de esos en el exterior que suben como un cohete de cristal ni se sabe d\u00f3nde. En uno de los cientos de establecimientos comimos un okonomiyaki, delicioso, antes de salir hacia el puerto para coger el ferry. \n\nC\u00f3mo se difuminaba la ciudad, poco a poco, en el cielo de la tarde, justo al final de la estela blanca que dejaba atr\u00e1s el barco\u2026\n\n\n\nM. y yo, mientras tom\u00e1bamos un caf\u00e9 en su casa, ya de regreso en \u00d4ita, sentados en unas sillas, est\u00e1bamos bastante silenciosos. A veces uno hablaba del rumor de las olas en Kii-Katsura, toda la noche, y las luci\u00e9rnagas junto al mar... Y luego el otro hablaba del extra\u00f1o espantap\u00e1jaros autom\u00e1tico y casero de los arrozales.... Y de los campos de t\u00e9, tan verde, o del suzumebachi \u00a1qu\u00e9 miedo! \u2026. Y el otro despu\u00e9s, de aquella noche en que llov\u00eda y nos dol\u00eda la espalda sobre el suelo duro pero cant\u00f3 el hototogisu y nosotros le imit\u00e1bamos como ni\u00f1os que pasan el rato jugando sin m\u00e1s.... Y de aquellos ciervos que huyeron cuando nosotros aparecimos de entre la espesura.... O de aquellas flores tan blancas de nombre desconocido que jalonaban un valle lleno de helechos.... Recuerdo c\u00f3mo brillaban bajo la lluvia.... S\u00ed, lo recuerdo bien....\n\n\n\n\n","original_title":"Peregrinaci\u00f3n en el coraz\u00f3n de Jap\u00f3n"},"User":{"id":"8094530","name":"F\u00e9lix Arce Araiz ","username":"felixarcearaiz","has_avatar":"2","suspicious_pois_level":"0","avatar":"https:\/\/avatars.mnstatic.com\/8094530_80x80_2.jpg"},"Pictures":[{"id":"10714019","hashcode":"68757a2aeb1de55e83544951e507c72a","post_time":"2018-10-15 12:23:48","o_width":"1200","o_height":"1600","base_color":"65737F"},{"id":"10713840","hashcode":"4ab72b52fc12bb2ea65e5cf8e5affe9a","post_time":"2018-10-15 12:23:45","o_width":"1600","o_height":"1200","base_color":"65737F"},{"id":"10713829","hashcode":"1e9408ca7706d716ae82f2ccbcd3965a","post_time":"2018-10-15 12:23:45","o_width":"1200","o_height":"1600","base_color":"65737F"},{"id":"10713911","hashcode":"cdc3295f8521e58416fe1651cb73c703","post_time":"2018-10-15 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Paths and Nakahechi Kohechi go through Nachisan where the highest waterfall in Japan, Nachi-no-taki and Kumano Nachi Taisha. Through Singhu the Kumano Taisha-Hayatama encountered by the Honghu Hongu Taisha Shrine Kumano and Koyasan just over 200temples the most important, the Kongobuji.","title":"I took 7 days to make the 140km route...","hidden":0,"post_time":"2007-11-12 00:00:00","lang_flag":"fr","original_content":"J'ai pris 7jours pour faire les 140km de route sur 6000m de d\u00e9nivel\u00e9 du p\u00e8lerinage de Kumano Kodo, d\u00e9clar\u00e9 en 2004 au Patrimoine Mondial de l'Unesco. Les chemins de Nakahechi et Kohechi passent par Nachisan o\u00f9 se trouve la chute d'eau la plus \u00e9lev\u00e9e du Japon, Nachi-no-taki et le sanctuaire Kumano Taisha Nachi. En passant par Singhu, on rencontre le sanctuaire Kumano Hayatama-Taisha, par Honghu le temple Kumano Hongu Taisha et \u00e0 Koyasan un peu plus de 200temples dont le plus important, le Kongobuji.","original_title":"J'ai pris 7jours pour faire les 140km..."},"User":{"id":"70113","name":"Imma","username":"imma292","has_avatar":"3","suspicious_pois_level":"0","avatar":"https:\/\/avatars.mnstatic.com\/70113_80x80_3.jpg"},"Pictures":[{"id":"429846","hashcode":"e5149df3855f27189bd459a5ec3b62cd","post_time":"2009-09-03 20:23:04","o_width":"909","o_height":"400","base_color":"65737F"},{"id":"429845","hashcode":"fa09700b7a321b39ed850607e3be53cb","post_time":"2009-09-03 20:23:04","o_width":"400","o_height":"533","base_color":"65737F"},{"id":"429848","hashcode":"5374215ce309ecc1a42c9229c0ca007d","post_time":"2009-09-03 20:23:04","o_width":"533","o_height":"400","base_color":"65737F"},{"id":"429858","hashcode":"b37acc0a6287fce5ea508861eac5e714","post_time":"2009-09-03 20:23:04","o_width":"533","o_height":"400","base_color":"65737F"},{"id":"429864","hashcode":"e747323084bbf061b07b6782649fce52","post_time":"2009-09-03 20:23:04","o_width":"400","o_height":"533","base_color":"65737F"},{"id":"429861","hashcode":"cd74484b2cddc06345f69e0be10d4548","post_time":"2009-09-03 20:23:04","o_width":"400","o_height":"533","base_color":"65737F"},{"id":"429865","hashcode":"c7d8f99271c05232b454bdd636291c79","post_time":"2009-09-03 20:23:04","o_width":"533","o_height":"400","base_color":"65737F"},{"id":"429868","hashcode":"cd15e99b36691cd641b8e915b098a4d9","post_time":"2009-09-03 20:23:04","o_width":"533","o_height":"400","base_color":"65737F"},{"id":"429867","hashcode":"f108154a7c5287fd876e4d12afcef7b1","post_time":"2009-09-03 20:23:04","o_width":"533","o_height":"400","base_color":"65737F"},{"id":"429870","hashcode":"721726d7491e1caae48faf5cbe9aadea","post_time":"2009-09-03 20:23:04","o_width":"533","o_height":"400","base_color":"65737F"}],"Rating":null}]
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