Neolithic cave art
When I visited the Cave of Altamira in 1976, I didn't imagine that I’d be one of the last ones privileged enough to see this Sistine Chapel of rock art. In 1977, it was closed to the public to curb the rapid deterioration of the paintings, and when it reopened there was a 2-year waiting list.
In 1998, they began studying how to make an exact replica of the cave, the final result of which opened in July 2001. This "neocave" measures 15x9 meters and is now open along with the Altamira Museum. Rafael Alberti in The Lost Grove describes perfectly the feeling that one had leaving the original cave. He wrote: "It seemed that the rocks roared. It was like the first Spanish bull run; crammed with bulls struggling to get out...they were free of cowboys and herders. Bellowing, bearded, and terrible after centuries of darkness. I left the cave full of angels and entered the light."
From Santillana del Mar, where I was staying, there is a delightful uphill walk of about 2 miles during which you can watch the cows graze in the green pastures of Cantabria. When I reached the area of the museum, I thought my memories of my visit 28 years ago must be mistaken...it was all different and much, much bigger.
