Mount Haguro

This was truly a magical day of pilgrimage. The summit of Haguro (414m) is reached by climbing 2446 stone steps that wind through towering cedars teeming with guardian spirits. Throughout the journey there are wondrous things to see.

We rose at seven for morning prayers and a blessing from the priest who ran our hotel to ensure our journey would be an auspicious one. The walk started from a rustic torii gate in the center of Touge. Immediately we were plunged into the moss green shade of the Japanese red cedar forest and we quickly spotted white clad pilgrims making offerings at a multitude of shrines. We soon came across the red lacquered bridge which crosses the Haraigawa River and leads to the foot of the Suga waterfall. Shortly afterwards we came to Jiji-sugi, the Grandpa cedar tree, and stood staring up into the branches of this lofty giant. This tree is thought to be over a 1000 years old. It was only a few more steps before we encountered the 5-storied pagoda built from wood without nails. This graceful structure seems weightless when contrasted with the surrounding rocks and trees. After the pagoda the steps became steeper, but luckily there was the opportunity to take a rest at the charming Ninosaka Chaya tea house. We took a breather, sipping matcha tea and looking over the Shonai plain to the sea. The friendly ladies who run the tea house also offer pilgrimage certificates and souvenirs. Back to climbing steps once more, we passed the temple where the famous poet Basho stayed. His travels through this area are captured in haikus in the The Narrow Road to the Deep North. Finally we reached the red torii gate and the Sanzan-Gosai-den shrine which symbolizes birth. The temple has the thickest thatched roof in Japan and has wisely been surrounded by water jets for fire protection. Close to the shrine is the "Mirror pond" which has been used for centuries for purification rituals and the Bonsho bell, which is the third largest in Japan.