Pleasantly surprising
Crowned by the Peña de Francia and consisting of high peaks and surprisingly rugged valleys, the spectacular Sierra de France contains samples of rock art and several picturesque architectural villages. Among them the best preserved is La Alberca, a village of dreams, not only for its mountain buildings erected with stone sustained with timber frame, but because like few others it retains its traditions in festivities, how they dress-you can still see women today who remain in their attire vestiges of old customs, in their crafts, and their exquisite cuisine.
Walking in La Alberca is pleasantly surprising: one thinks at times that they are in an ancient Jewish quarter, or, in an intricate abandoned Arab souk. It’s because its streets seem like a mysterious labyrinth. Perhaps the effect is produced by the eaves of the upper floors of the houses almost touching, covering the streets as if they were roofed, the low and robust lintels tilted by time, chiselled with dates of foundation and worn religious inscriptions. The feeling goes away in the small and delightful Plaza Mayor, which looks great when opening to the mountain air and light. Here we note that La Alberca is very much alive.
Neighbours come together to talk, women go for water at the fountains. In one corner, facing the beautiful transept of the plaza, there is a shop with delicious cured hams and embutidos; in another the cheeses make the mouth water. Beyond that, a showcase exhibits handmade turrón, roscas (kings cake), perrunillas ... I stop in front of another, crammed with Sotoserrano wines.
And then there are the crafts. The thoroughness of the Serrano embroidery bedazzles, wood carvings and traditional jewellery. The feeling is that La Alberca although quiet and calm, is always on the verge of a party.